Eric Demay

Like most taquerillas in downtown Mexico, the waiters at El Borrego Viudo (The Widowed Sheep) scribble down your order (how many tacos? refreshments?) and leave to the kitchen. They’ll then come back moments later, running out in your direction with an armful of plates, including the customary accompanying tomato salsa and fresh limes. However, at this establishment, all happens and is experienced from the front seat of your car.

It’s a drive-in restaurant. The show starts as the waiters waive you in the parking lot, indicating an available parking spot. They’ll even help you park, whistling the distance left behind you while you back up (same ritual when you leave). And between this dance of incoming and backing-up cars, is the other inflow: tacos to the parking lot. Waiters valsing through the vehicles with too many plates up their sleeves, feeding the hungry dinning drivers.